Thursday, December 19, 2019

Brazilian Seafood Chowder: Moqueca

This is a common soup in the coastal state of Bahia in Brazil. Like many popular dishes, it has numerous variations, including some that are somewhat more involved. Fish with a relatively firm flesh are used in Brazil, one of those being a large type of catfish from Brazil, but cod, swordfish, halibut or other catfish can also be used. Traditionally cooked in a "moquequeira," a type of pan, the name of this chowder, "Moqueca," is derived from that type of cooking pan. Also traditionally, oil made from palm fruit, known as "dendê oil" in Brazil, is used to make "Moqueca." This oil has a bright reddish or orangish color, but it has become highly controversial, both for reasons of health (high saturated fat level) and for the environment, the cutting down of palm trees, thus contributing to the deforestation of the rainforest, which in turn reduces the habitat of many animals. You can substitute extra virgin olive oil and then add some saffron threads, and/or soak a little annatto* in the oil, or add some ground turmeric (see recipe below). Generally, while the dish contains red chilies, it is not really hot, as the amount of ingredients dilutes the heat of the chilies, but leaves just a hint of spicy tingle for the dish. If you prefer more spicy heat to your food, add another chili pepper or two. 

Ingredients (for about 6 to 8 servings):

1 pound cod, swordfish or halibut, cut into about 1 or 2 inch pieces
1 pound medium shrimp(s)
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
4 or 5 Roma tomatoes, chopped
1 heaping tablespoon sweet paprika
juice of 2 limes
1 large red bell pepper, cut into rings
1 medium green pepper/Anaheim pepper, chopped or cut into rings
2 hot red chili peppers, seeded and chopped
4 green onions, chopped
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 or 4 saffron threads, and/or a little annatto soaked in the oil, or 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric (I used both saffron threads and annatto) 
1 can (13.5 to 15 ounces) coconut milk
1 teaspoon salt
cilantro for garnish

Put the fish pieces and the shrimps in a dish, then add the garlic, lime juice and salt; mix well, cover the dish and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Heat the olive oil, saffron (or annatto or turmeric) in a pot or large pan over medium heat, then add the onion, red bell pepper, green pepper, tomatoes and chili pepper. Let cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens somewhat. Add the paprika, green onions, chopped cilantro; stir to mix well. Then add the fish and shrimp mixture (lime juice, garlic and salt). Cook briefly until the fish and shrimp BEGIN to change color. Add the coconut milk, stir to mix, and let the dish come to a simmer; then adjust the heat to simply maintain a gentle simmer. Let simmer until the fish and shrimp are simply cooked through, then remove from the heat. Overcooked shrimp can often become tough. Often served with rice or good bread to sop up the excellent broth. 

* Annatto is a seasoning and food coloring product from the seeds of the achiote tree. It is commonly used in dishes from the Caribbean and Central and South America. 



WORD HISTORY:
Chowder-This word for a thick stew, often with fish or other seafood, is related to "cauldron," a Latin-derived word borrowed by English by way of Latin-based French. It goes back to Indo European "kelhe," which had the notion "warm, hot." This gave its Latin offspring "calidus," with the same meaning, and this produced "calidarium," meaning "warm or hot bath," which later produced "caldaria," meaning, "a pot for cooking." This passed into Old French as "chaudière," with the same meaning, and English borrowed the word in the mid 1700s as "chowder," but meaning "the fish stew cooked in a 'chaudière'."  

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