Frankfurters with Cheese & Bacon: Berner Würstel

This is a food item to have for a snack on its own, or as the centerpiece for lunch or even for dinner. While pretty common in Austria and parts of southern Germany (Bavaria), these are likely not unknown in Liechtenstein and parts of Switzerland, although they actually come from the Salzburg area of Austria. Understand, the "Berner" part of the name has nothing to do with the Swiss city of Bern, but rather it is the family name of the man credited with the recipe.      

Often served with mustard on the side, some people use ketchup or seasoned tomato sauce, and others are a bit more elaborate by serving chopped onions or freshly grated horseradish alongside, as well as accompaniments like potato salad, fried potatoes and/or some type of garden salad. In the U.S., what we call "Swiss Cheese" is based upon Swiss Emmentaler cheese, which indeed originated in Switzerland, but which is also produced by U.S. cheese companies with their own recipes. Emmentaler is also produced in Germany, specifically in Bavaria, and in France, where it is termed Emmental, and in some other countries too. Gouda originated in the Netherlands, but it too is imitated elsewhere.   

Ingredients (for each Frankfurter, see photo below):

1 Frankfurter
1 or 2 strips of Swiss Cheese (Emmentaler) or Gouda, cut from a slice
1 or 2 thin slices smoked bacon
small amount of oil for frying

Cut the frankfurter lengthwise from one end to the other, but do NOT cut completely through the sausage (although some do just that, and I've made them both ways; the bacon will bind around the Frankfurter either way). Put the cheese into the cut part of the frankfurter then press lightly to close. Wrap the bacon around the frankfurter to completely enclose the frankfurter. These are sometimes grilled, but I put just a few drops of oil into a skillet over medium heat and I fry the bacon-wrapped frankfurters on all sides until browned. The oil will help to prevent sticking as the frankfurter(s) begin to cook and the fat from the bacon will gradually be rendered to help even more.

For one Berner Würstel: a Frankfurter, strips of Swiss cheese or Gouda and 1 or 2 slices of bacon (thinly sliced)

2 Berner Würstel with some fried potatoes, chopped onion and tomato slices

WORD HISTORY:
Cripple-This word is related to "creep," a word from the Germanic roots of English. It goes back to Indo European "grewb/greub," which meant, "to turn, twist, to wind." This gave Old Germanic "krupilaz," meaning, "one who is bent and walks haltingly." This gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "crypel" meaning "a cripple," but also used adjectivally and meaning, "crippled." This then became "crepel," then "cripel," before the modern form. The noun form is considered by some to be offensive and, while it is still around, it has largely been replaced by "disabled person" and "handicapped person" (this is also largely true of the adjective, but mainly when applied to people, and of course "lame" is still used at times). The verb form developed from the noun/adjective in the 1200s and meant, "to walk haltingly," a meaning now seldom, if ever, used as a verb. In the 1300s came the further meaning "to make someone or something lame or otherwise handicapped," with the figurative use expanding further to "hinder someone or something"^ (example: "The heavy rains are crippling our effort to have a backyard barbecue"), and these are the meanings still today. Relatives in the other Germanic languages (I'm giving noun forms, unless noted): German has "Krüppel" (the exact history of the standard German form is unclear to me, but the word seems to have been at least influenced by Low German), Low German has "Kröpel," West Frisian "krepel" (?), Dutch "kreupel" (this is an adjective) and "kreupele" (noun), Danish "krøbling" (?), Norwegian "krøpling," Swedish "krympling," Icelandic "krymppill" (I'm uncertain of this, but Old Norse had the same/similar, and Icelandic is still remarkably close to its ancestor).  

^ "Hinder" is a good word to use in the meaning, and the tie can be easily seen with "hinder," as in German, a "Behinderung" is "a disability, a handicap," although it can also mean, "a hindrance, an obstruction."

Austro-German Fried Celery Root (Celeriac)

While my recipe below varies a little from the recipe in this book, it was this book, which I've owned for quite a number of years, that gave me the idea to try a recipe for fried celery root, with such recipes not being uncommon in Germany and Austria (maybe Switzerland?). I'm not sure if the book is even available anymore, either in English or in the original German, but if you get a copy, be sure to eat first; otherwise, you'll want to fix every recipe in the book just from seeing the wonderful photographs. "Austria, a culinary tour," by Gerda Rob, translated from German to English by Guthrie Thomson, with photos by Hans Joachim Döbbelin. Sigloch Edition 1994, printed in Immenstadt, Germany, bookbinding in Künzelsau, Germany.

In German, there is no one name for fried celery root. German for celery root/celeriac is properly "Knollensellerie," but in certain contexts you might just see "Sellerie," or other forms like "Zeller," "Wurzelsellerie," or even "Sellerieknolle" (see Word History, below).

Serve with tartar sauce*or ranch dressing,** along with ham, sausages or smoked pork shoulder; that is, cottage ham, and in German "Geräucherte Schweineschulter." ***

Ingredients:

2 celery roots (baseball size), peeled and sliced into about 1/2 inch thick slices
3 tablespoons lemon juice 
1 to 1 1/4 cup flour (divided use)
1/4 cup bread crumbs (I prefer fine breadcrumbs with this, not panko)
2 eggs
1/3 to 2/3 cup white wine
1/2 teaspoon ground pepper 
1/2 teaspoon salt
olive oil for frying

After peeling and slicing the celery root, sprinkle the slices with the lemon juice. Heat enough water in a pan/pot to cover the celery root slices (be sure to pour in the lemon juice from the slices too). Add about a tablespoon of salt and and bring the water to a boil. Simmer the celery root slices until just tender, drain them. Dust the slices on both sides with a little flour. Mix together 3/4 cup flour, breadcrumbs, eggs, pepper, salt, and 1/3 cup white wine to make a batter (if too thick, add a little more white wine). Dip the flour dusted celery root slices into the batter. Fry the slices in preheated regular olive oil until golden brown. I use a skillet, but if you have a deep fryer, great! Drain the fried slices on paper towels and sprinkle with salt to taste. 

* To make your own tartar sauce, here is the link to the recipe:
https://pontificating-randy.blogspot.com/2016/09/homemade-tartar-sauce.html

** To make your own ranch dressing, here is the link to the recipe:
https://pontificating-randy.blogspot.com/2016/06/homemade-ranch-dressing.html 

*** The German word and food product "Katenschinken" is literally the equivalent to English "Cottage Ham," with "Katen" the close relative of English "cott," and "Schinken" the close relative of English "shank;" thus "ham." Cottage hams come from the pork shoulder of the front leg of the pig, while German Katenschinken are from the rear leg of the pig. Katenschinken are a specialty ham product of Holstein in northern Germany, where the small smokehouses were dubbed "Katen" (pronounced much like English "cotton"); the true meaning of which is, like its English cousin, "a small house in the countryside."
 
In this case, I had the Fried Celery Root with ranch dressing and knockwurst ...

WORD HISTORY:
Knoll-This word is related to  "knot," a word from the Germanic roots of English, and to "gnocchi," a word borrowed by English from Italian, which had gotten it from Lombardic, a Germanic dialect/language. It goes back to an Indo European form of, "gn/kn/gen/ken," which had the notion of "press, pinch into a compressed form or a ball." This gave Germanic a form of (perhaps?) "knuðla" (=knuthla), meaning, "clump, clod, lump." This gave Old English "cnoll," meaning "a hilltop, a mound." The spelling then changed to "knoll." Its German relative is "Knolle," and interestingly, while English speakers saw the "clump, lump" as being on top of the Earth's surface, German speakers saw it as being being below the Earth's surface; that is, "bulbous plant root, tuber." Low German has both "Knüll" (small hill) and "Knoll" (plant root, tuber), Dutch has "knol" (tuber), Old Norse had "knollr" (mountain top, hilltop), but it's unclear to me how, or even if, the word continued into the modern North Germanic languages from Old Norse or was borrowed from other Germanic languages; for instance, Danish uses "knold" for "tuber," and indeed, "knoldselleri" means "celery root," and Swedish has "knöl" (tuber, lump, knob). In American English especially, "knoll" has featured prominently and controversially in the investigation into the assassination of President John F. Kennedy in November 1963 in Dallas, Texas, as an area called "the grassy knoll" was a possible site of a shot or shots fired at the president.

Austro-German Boiled Beef: Tafelspitz

This dish has a strong tie to Vienna, but it is well known in other parts of Austria and Germany, especially in Bavaria. In German, "Tafelspitz" literally means "table tip or point," presumably because of its shape (see photos below). "Spitz" means "point or tip" in German, and it is closely related to English "spit," not the saliva meaning, but rather, "a pointed rod used for cooking meat;" that is, a type of "skewer." While in more recent times some may use various cuts of beef, the dish seemingly originated by the use of what in the U.S. is called a tri-tip, or triangle roast, which is still the traditional choice for this dish; in fact, the name "Tafelspitz" is also used for that specific cut of beef in German, although, as in just about all things German having to do with food, there are regional names like, "Hüferschwanz," "Hiefelschwanzl," "Pastorenstück." Because the slow simmering of the beef drains much of the flavor from the vegetables, when the meat is done, it is best to strain the broth and discard the vegetables, then cook fresh vegetables in the broth for serving with the beef. Celeriac (celery root) is pretty easily found these days in many supermarkets or produce shops, or you can use parsnips.

Ingredients:

2 1/2 pound beef tri-tip/top round roast
3 large carrots, divided use
1 onion (baseball size)
1 celery root (celeriac, baseball size), peeled, or 1 or 2 parsnips, peeled
2 stalks celery (with leaves)
(optional) beef marrow bones
10 peppercorns, cracked
1 tablespoon salt (or to taste)

Apple/Horseradish Salad
2 apples, peeled and cored
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon sugar (more if needed)
2 to 3 tablespoons horseradish (freshly grated or from a jar, but drained)
1/4 teaspoon salt

Place the roast into a pot, cover it with water, and add one of the carrots (washed, but it needn't be peeled). Halve the onion and peel one of the halves, then roughly chop it and add it to the pot. Add the other onion half, skin on, to the pot, along with the celery stalks (each cut into 3 pieces). If you have a couple of marrow bones, add them to the pot and toss in the peppercorns, but do not add salt at this time. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer for about 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until the meat is tender. Remove the meat and strain the broth into another pan or large bowl. Remove the marrow bones, if using, from the strained matter, you can then discard the rest of the strained matter. Return the broth to the pot and add the remaining 2 carrots, but this time you can peel them and slice them into multiple pieces. Peel the celery root or parsnips and cut them into multiple pieces also, then add them to the pot, along with the salt. Bring the broth to a boil again and cook the vegetables until they are tender. For the apple/horseradish: grate the peeled and cored apples into a bowl (sprinkle on some lemon juice as you grate the apples; otherwise, the grated apples will begin to turn brown). When the apples are grated, add any remaining lemon juice, the sugar, the salt and the horseradish, then mix everything together well. Horseradish can lose its "zip" if it sets too long, so it's best to grate it fresh and serve the apple/horseradish alongside the meat immediately.

Slice the meat rather thinly across the grain and serve with the just cooked vegetables and the apple/horseradish salad; additionally, fried potatoes, called "Bratkartoffeln" in German, are a frequent side dish for "Tafelspitz."    

WORD HISTORY:
Claw-This word is related to "clay" and to "cleave" (the verb meaning, "to stick or cling to"), both words from the Germanic roots of English, and to "glue," a Latin-derived word borrowed by English through French. It goes back to Indo European "gleuh/gleyh," which had the notion of "stick together, adhere," with the further sense, "form into a ball." This gave Old Germanic "klawo," with the meaning, "animal foot forming a round shape or appearing to form a round shape." This gave Old English "clea," meaning "claw, nail of a claw," and then the form "clawu," with the same meanings. This then became "clawe/claue," before the modern form. Relatives in the other Germanic languages: German has "Klaue," meaning, "claw," but also secondarily, "hoof," perhaps from the split in a hoof resembling a claw? Low German "Klau" (claw), West Frisian "klau" (claw), Dutch "klauw" (claw), Swedish, Danish, Norwegian "klo" (claw), Icelandic "kló" (claw). The verb form seems to have come from an Old Germanic form like "klaujanan" (?), which gave Old English "clawian" (to claw or scratch), with relative German "klauen" having somewhat more extensive meanings like, "to steal," in the sense, 'to snatch away, to swipe,' seemingly from the notion of birds of prey swooping down and using their claws to snatch up small animals or birds, but also meaning simply, "to seize, to grab," and further, "to crawl (like a crab)," seemingly from the idea of the crab having claws and their moving like a crawl. Verb forms in Low German (klouwen) and Dutch (clouwen) are now archaic. 

Austro-German Stuffed Bread: Jägerwecken

"Word History" slightly edited 8-20-22

"Jägerwecken" undoubtedly developed as a tasty food that could easily be toted along in a knapsack with a hunter ("Jäger" means "hunter" in German). In more modern times, it is just as easily taken along in a picnic basket for an afternoon outdoors, or it can be served as part of a light lunch or a snack. "Jäger," pronounced as if "yea-gah," is a word derived from the verb "jagen" (pronounced as if "yaw-gen," and once spelled "jagon," with a long 'o'), which meant, "to pursue, to chase;" thus, "to hunt." The verb is of unclear origins, although perhaps West Germanic, with its strongest development coming after the Anglo-Saxons left the Continent for Britain; thus, English does not have a form of the word. The noun form "Jäger" came from the notion of "one who hunts or pursues," and as time passed the word branched out into the military meaning of, "a lightly armed soldier or military policeman;" thus, "a rifleman, light infantry," then even later for military aircraft, "a fighter plane." "Wecken" is closely related to English "wedge" (originally spelled "wecg"), and it has long been a regional German word for "bread roll," although in various spellings like: "Weck," "Wecke," "Wegg," "Weckle," "Wecksche."   

"Jägerwecken" are often associated with "Steiermark," which is rendered as "Styria" in Latin, and is often used as such in English. Known as "Steiermark" in German, it is located in southern Austria, and the second part, "Mark" (English relative is "march," not the military kind, see Word History, below) shows it has long been a border region, and was such in the Old German Empire. "Jägerwecken" are known beyond Steiermark, and they are commonly served at Christmas time, but they are also good for lunch or for a snack during break time. "Break time" has many names in German-speaking areas, with probably two of the best known terms being "Brotzeit," literally "bread time,'' which is extensively used in Bavaria, and also "Jause," a word German adopted as a borrowing from Slovenian. "Jause" is used in many parts of Austria, but there are many other terms in use throughout German language areas.* These "snack times" are commonly accompanied by beer, even in many business locations, a practice that might cause some American business people to faint, but it is generally expected in German cultural areas.

This is simply my version of "Jägerwecken," but there are a great many variations. You may need to adjust the ingredient amounts to fit with your type of bread loaf, so keep that in mind, but none of this will require a government-sponsored scientific research effort. 

Ingredients:

1 loaf bread, halved, middle removed, you want to leave the outer crust and some of the soft inside
1/2 cup chopped dill pickles
3 tablespoons mustard
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup chopped ham
4 or 5 slices of smoked bacon, chopped
1 medium potato, peeled, chopped/diced 
1/2 cup chopped cheese (like Gouda or Edam)
1/3 cup shredded carrot
1/3 cup cream cheese 
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

In a skillet over medium heat, add the chopped bacon. Once the bacon fat begins to melt, add the chopped potato. I prefer to turn down the heat to low and let the bacon and potato cook slowly. You don't want the bacon or potato pieces to be too dark or too hard, so keep an eye on the skillet and stir things as needed. When the potato pieces are lightly browned, remove the skillet from the heat and let the mixture cool down somewhat. In the meantime, cut the loaf of bread and remove the center, leaving a small amount of the soft inside around the crust. Chop or tear the removed center of the bread and add it to a bowl. In a small bowl or a cup, mix together the mayonnaise, cream cheese and mustard. Add this and all of the other ingredients to the bowl, including the lightly browned potato pieces and bacon and gently keep folding the ingredients over and over for a few minutes, until everything is well mixed (you don't want to break up the potato pieces into mashed potatoes). Fill the hollowed out bread loaf with the mixture and take care to pack it into the bread, but not to break open the loaf structure. Wrap the Jägerwecken in plastic wrap or foil and refrigerate it for about 90 minutes to 2 hours. Remove the wrapping and use a good knife to cut the filled loaf into slices about one inch thick.   

* Many items are served at break time, but two well known specialties in the southern German areas are large pretzels and white sausage (Weißwurst). Oh, did I mention beer?

WORD HISTORY:
March-There is more than one word of this spelling in English, although, with the exception of the version used for the month of "March," they are all likely related, and therefore, they are related to "mark," a word from the Germanic roots of English (read further), and to "margin," a Latin-derived word borrowed by English (related through Indo European). As you will notice, there is much uncertainty as to many of the specifics of "march,"^ although the general trail of the word is much more clear. This form of "march" means  "borderland," a meaning now somewhat antiquated in English, except for academics. It goes back to Indo European "mereg," which meant "border, edge, boundary." This gave its Old Germanic offspring "marko," with the meaning, "boundary, edge, border area." This gave Old English "mearc/merc" (depending upon dialect), which continued the same basic meaning with "boundary, limit, border area." Old French absorbed a form of the word, "marche," from Germanic Frankish "marka," and "perhaps" passed this form along to Latin, which had "marca" (or perhaps Latin got its form from the Lombards, another Germanic tribe that settled in what became northern Italy?). The English forms "seem" to have been dwindling in usage, although the English kingdom of "Mercia" is simply a Latinized form of Old English "Mierce," which seemingly originated along the "border" with what became Wales; thus, "a border area." The Normans brought along the French form which melded with the waning English form (circa 1200?). Thus reinforced, this gave new impetus to the English word and influenced the pronunciation of the word, as the actual English form of "mearc" developed into modern "mark," initially meaning, "a sign of a boundary or border." As I noted above, there are other forms of the basic word in English and in the other Germanic languages, so it is often difficult to separate out words to fit this exact meaning of "border, boundary," as several are really closer to English "mark" in meaning,^^ but here are a couple of examples of relatives to the English word in other Germanic languages: German and Low German have "Mark" (boundary, territorial limit),^^^ Dutch has "mark" (although apparently, like its English cousin, the word is antiquated).

^ I frequently try to convey some sense of uncertainty by the use of words like "perhaps," "seem," "seemingly," "possibly" or "likely."

^^ That is, "a stain or blemish on a surface, often, but not always done by error," as in, "The spaghetti sauce spattered out of the pan leaving a mark on my shirt," but also, "The Israelites put a mark of lamb's blood above their doors, so that the angel of death would pass over them."   

^^^ Perhaps because "Mark" was an old form (?), German borrowed what became its word for "border" from Slavic, that word being "Grenze," but "Mark" remains associated with the "border areas" of the Old German Empire, especially with Steiermark and Mark Brandenburg (the state around Berlin), and what is now modern Austria was once called "Ostmark;" that is, "East Border Area," a term Hitler revived for his homeland, as he sought to tie modern German areas to the Old German Empire.         

Tyrol Bacon Dumplings: Tiroler Speckknödel

"Tiroler Speckknödel" seemingly date back about 800 years! While the Tirol region* seems to be the place of origin of these splendid dumplings, "Speckknödel" are not uncommon in parts of Bavaria. There are some variations for Speckknödel; as for instance, some people fix them without onion, while others use some marjoram in the dough. Firm salami type sausages are commonly used as the sausage component for "Speckknödel," and while 6 to 7 cups of bread pieces may seem like a lot, it really isn't, as the pieces should be loosely put into a cup, not pressed in. The dumplings are often simply eaten in beef broth or with sauerkraut or with a salad. I get about 12 golf ball size dumplings from this recipe.

Ingredients:
6 to 7 loosely packed cups dried bread or rolls, cubed or crumbled into small pieces (about like large lima beans in size)
1/3 to 1/2 pound bacon, thick rind removed, and then chopped
1/4 pound firm salami-type sausage, chopped 
1/2 cup onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup milk
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour (perhaps another tablespoon)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon parsley
salted water to cook
chopped chives for garnish

In a skillet over low heat, melt the butter and then add the finely chopped onion, cook for about 2 to 3 minutes. Now add the bacon and sausage, increase the heat to medium, and cook for a few minutes, until the bacon has softened (do not let the bacon or sausage get crispy), remove from the heat and let the mixture cool down somewhat. In a bowl, add the bread pieces, bacon mixture, eggs, salt, parsley, 1 tablespoon of flour, and the milk. Mix everything together by hand for a minute or two, then cover the bowl and let it sit for about 15 minutes or so. In the meantime, bring a pot or pan of water seasoned with some salt to a boil. Wet your hands with some cold water, and roll some of the dough into golf ball sized dumplings. Add the dumplings to the boiling water and adjust the heat so that the water is simply simmering, not seething. Cook the dumplings for about 12 to 15 minutes, and just because they float, doesn't mean they are done. Keep turning the dumplings in the simmering water until the time has passed. Remove them with a slotted spoon to a plate covered with paper towels or napkins to let them drain or add them straightaway to bowls of hot beef broth and sprinkle with chopped chives.

* The Tirol region was a part of the Old German Empire (Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation), and came under the control of the Habsburg family, the head of which was the Archduke of Austria, and who was long elected as the German emperor. When this entity was disbanded (1806), Tirol was a part of the new Austrian Empire (announced in 1804), which later was reorganized and renamed the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867), or Austria-Hungary as a somewhat shorter form. After World War One, the southern districts of Tirol (called South Tirol, or Südtirol in German) were ceded to Italy for its entry into the war on the Allied side and this became a part of the Italian Alto Adige region. Some of the world's great skiers are from both the Austrian and Italian areas of Tirol.

WORD HISTORY:
Sinew-This word goes back to Indo European "sneh," which had the notion "to twist together, to connect together, to weave together." This gave its Old Germanic offspring "sinawo," which meant "sinew, tendon," which gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "seonu" and "sinu," depending upon dialect, both forms with the same meaning. This then became "sinue" (the ending 'e' pronounced eh/ah),  before the modern version. The other Germanic languages have: German "Sehne" (sinew, tendon), Low German Saxon "Sehn" (sinew, tendon), Dutch "zenuw" (nerve, sinew), West Frisian "sine" (sinew, tendon), Norwegian "sene" (tendon, sinew), Icelandic "sin" (tendon), Swedish "sena" (tendon, sinew), Danish "sene" (sinew, tendon).

Austro-German Salt Rolls: Salzstangen/Salzstangerl

There are many regional names for bread rolls in German, with the standard German word "Brötchen," a diminutive word literally meaning "(a) little or small bread," serving as a general term. Rolls of various shapes and sizes sprinkled with or rolled in salt and caraway seeds are common in a number of German (broad sense) areas. The relatively narrow and rod-shaped rolls with salt and caraway are called "Salzstangen" by some Germans and "Salzstangerl" by some others, primarily in Austria.* Both terms can also be used for "pretzel sticks." The "Stange" part of both words is related to English "sting," and English once had the noun "steng," derived from the earlier form of "sting," and it essentially meant what German "Stange" still means; that is, "rod, bar, pole," but it is not hard to see how English developed "stinger" from the idea of a "rod or pole that punctures."

I used a mixture of bread flour and all purpose flour, but you can certainly use just all purpose flour.

Ingredients (8 rolls):

1 cup bread flour
1 cup all purpose flour
1 packet (1/4 ounce/7g) dry yeast (quick rise is fine)
1/2 teaspoon salt**
1/4 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 cup milk
salt, coarse (or pretzel salt)
caraway seed
1 beaten egg to hold the salt and caraway seeds

Mix together the flour, yeast, salt and sugar. Melt the butter and mix with the milk, then add this to the flour mix. Mix this all very well and knead the dough for several minutes until it is smooth. Roll the dough into a ball and cover with a towel or paper towel and let the dough sit for about 35 to 45 minutes in warm place. Roll the dough out into a circular form, like making a pizza, but then cut the dough into 8 equal segments. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Take one of the eight "pizza slices" of dough and roll it out by rolling from the wider part toward the pointed end, so that the dough is pretty thin, like you would think of pie crust or noodles. Roll up the dough, again beginning at the wide end. Place the dough on the baking sheet and continue with the remaining 7 rolls. Leave about an inch of space between the rolls. Beat the egg and brush some of the egg onto the tops of rolls, then sprinkle the rolls with some coarse salt and some caraway seeds. Cover the baking sheet with a towel or paper towel and let the dough sit for a half hour. Heat the oven to 350 F and bake the rolls for about 30 to 35 minutes, or until they are lightly browned.      

* The "erl" suffix is a pretty common form for diminutives in parts of Bavaria and Austria.

** Remember, you will be adding salt to the outside of the rolls. 

WORD HISTORY:
Tote-The origins of this word are not known, and even its beginning in English is not totally clear. It was borrowed by English circa 1675 "likely" from its Low German cousin "Tute" (now "Tuut"), which means "bag," but it "could" be related to "toot," from the idea of a horn being used as a container, and we still have the phrase, "horn of plenty," with a horn filled with various food products, and the Low German word originally meant "a cone shaped form of container," and there are connections even in Icelandic, a language to this day not all that far removed from its ancestor  Old Norse. German has "Tüte," but this was a borrowing from Low German in the 1500s, and it means "cone shaped holder/container," which then also broadened, as in Low German, to "bag." By the way, in German, an "Eistüte" is an ice cream cone. On the other hand, "some" believe "tote" to have come to English from an African language, where some similar words had similar meanings like "pick up, pile up, load."  

Farmer's Salad With Yogurt Dressing

"Farmer salads" have been often and naturally thought of as mainly having ingredients many farming households might well have on hand: cucumbers, onions, tomatoes, garlic, bell peppers and eggs. In addition though, some farming families made their own head cheese, as well as their own cheese, and these could be used to make a salad more substantial. In German areas of Europe, the homemade cheese was/is called by a variety of names, but in Hessen, it is called "Handkäse," * literally "hand cheese," because the whitish/light yellowish cheese was shaped by hand, while in the region of the Harz Mountains it is called "Harzer (Käse)," and in Austria it is often called "Quargel," a word "I believe" German derived from Slavic. In modern times head cheese and cheese (by whatever name) are more often commercially produced, but that doesn't mean that some individuals or families have abandoned making them at home. "Souse" is an American term for head cheese made with vinegar. In Britain, head cheese, with or without vinegar, is called "brawn."  
   
I "patterned" this recipe after Bavarian/Austrian salad recipes, and in Austria and Bavaria such salads are often served with rolls called "Salzstangen" or "Salzstangerl," which are rolls coated with coarse salt and (usually) caraway seeds. Certainly in the past, such a dressing for the salad would have been more likely to have been made with sour cream; again, a product readily available to farmers.   

Ingredients (5 or 6 servings):

1/2 medium red onion, chopped
1 seeded or seedless cucumber, peel on, or peeled, or partially peeled (your preference)
4 chopped Roma tomatoes (also called 'plum tomatoes'), or 20 to 25 grape tomatoes, halved
1/2 chopped red or green pepper
1/4 cup pitted black olives (Kalamata or niçoise), halved
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Toss all ingredients together well. 

For each serving:
1 or 2 thin slices of souse, cut into small pieces
1 or 2 thin slices Emmentaler cheese (Swiss cheese),** cut or torn into small pieces
1 hard boiled egg, halved 

For the yogurt dressing:

1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons oil (olive, canola, vegetable or even give extra virgin olive oil a try)
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons honey
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons rosemary, chopped   
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix all ingredients together well. If the dressing is too thick for you, add a little more oil. If you add more vinegar, you may have to consider adding more honey, but that depends upon your own taste.

* "Handkäse" ("Handkäs" is the common form in Hessen) is one of the specialty dishes of Frankfurt-am-Main in Hessen, where it is served in a dressing of cider vinegar, oil, hard apple cider, pepper, caraway seed and chopped onion, and called, "Handkäs mit Musik" (Hand Cheese with Music). It is "traditionally" accompanied with a glass of hard apple cider (in standard German called "Apfelwein," but called "Ebbelwoi" in the Hessian dialect of Frankfurt). "Handkäse" is not exclusive to Frankfurt, but rather it is common in other parts of Hessen as well. And I'm sure you're hanging by your thumbs wondering what the "with music" means. Well, there are two stories tied to the meaning, the most prominent of the two, but perhaps not originally the meaning, has to do with the onions causing intestinal gas; thus, "music," if you get my drift. This led to a little joke when people from outside of Frankfurt or Hessen would ask, "What and where is the music?" The standard answer became, "Die Musik kommt später" (The music comes later). The other story is that the oil and vinegar were kept in glass bottles for the person to pour on the desired amount of each. The bottles clinked together; thus, "music." When I've had "Handkäs mit Musik" in Frankfurt, it was always served that way, with the oil and vinegar bottles brought to the table with the onion topped hand cheese.

** In the U.S., "Swiss cheese" is the type of cheese in Switzerland and German cultural areas in Europe called "Emmentaler," after the area of its origin; the Emme River Valley (German: Emmental), near the city of Bern.

WORD HISTORY:
Shift-This word is distantly related to the verb "shed" ("to give off something, to get rid of something"), a word from the Germanic roots of English. It goes back to Indo European "skei(t)," which had the notion, "to cut, to cut off, to separate (from)." This gave Old Germanic "skiftjanan," meaning, "to put into order by separating, to arrange." This gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "sciftan," meaning, "to separate, to divide up, to arrange, to place in order." This then became "schiften," then "shiften," before the modern version. The meaning, "to move from one place to another," as in, "The corporation will shift its headquarters from Dallas to Denver," came from the idea of "arranging, allotting" (but actually "rearranging, reallocating"). It also took on the meaning, "to be able to take care of oneself," as in the expression, "shift for oneself," perhaps from the idea of "to keep one's life in order?" The noun developed from the verb circa 1300 and with numerous meanings, including "a set time for work;" as in, "I work the day shift from 7 until 3," and this meaning seems to date back in time, as it is also in some other Germanic languages, and it remains as a primary noun meaning in English, along with "movement, change," as in "a shift in public opinion." Relatives in the other Germanic languages: German has the verb "schichten" (to stack, to layer), which was borrowed from Low German and the noun "Schicht" (a level, a layer, and also, a group of people doing the same general work during a given period of time, also sometimes rendered as "Schichtarbeit;" that is, "shift work"), Low German has the verb "opschichten" (to stack up, to build up; the base word was once spelled "schiften"^), West Frisian has the noun "skift" (classification, category), Dutch has the verb "schiften" (to divide or stratify), Danish has the noun "skifte" (a change over) and the verb "skifte" (to alternate, to exchange), Norwegian has the noun "skifte" (a change or turn) and the verb "skifte" (to switch or change), Icelandic has the verb "skipta" (to divide up, to switch or exchange), Swedish has the verb "skifta" (to change, to shift, to divide) and the noun "skift" (set working period).  

^ While I'm uncertain of this, when German borrowed the word from Low German, it "seems" the standard German spelling and pronunciation as "schichten" may have eventually transferred to Low German; thus, no "f" in modern Low German and modern standard German. 

Pepper Cream Gravy: German/Austrian Pfefferrahmsauce

Besides the form "Pfefferrahmsauce," I used in the title, this gravy/sauce is also called and spelled "Pfefferrahmsoße," "Pfefferrahmsosse" in German. The "rahm" part is a word for "cream" in German, and it is a close relative of English "ream," a word with that same meaning now confined to dialect,* (not related to the word of the same spelling and used for a "paper measurement"). The gravy has some "zip" from the crushed peppercorns and the ground pepper, but the "zip" is also mellowed by the cream, and the heat is nothing like the heat in dishes which have hot chilies added. This gravy is a frequent accompaniment to steak, pork or even chicken (I replace the beef stock with chicken stock in the recipe then). 
 
Ingredients:

2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, pretty finely chopped
2 tablespoons flour 
2/3 cup beef stock
2 ounces brandy
3 tablespoons green peppercorns, crushed, but not obliterated
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream (or canned milk), keep 4 tablespoons separate
salt (if the beef stock is salty, you can leave this out or just use a small amount)

Melt the butter in a skillet over low heat. Add the onion and saute until the onion softens a bit. Add the crushed green peppercorns,** the ground black pepper, the lemon juice, the brandy and the beef stock. Increase the temperature to medium high and let the mixture come to a simmer. Stir in the heavy cream and turn the heat to high. Let the mixture well up/bubble up, stirring "almost" constantly. Have the 4 tablespoons of heavy cream well mixed with the 2 tablespoons of flour; gradually add this to the hot liquid, stirring constantly, until the gravy thickens. Turn down the heat to low and let the gravy simmer for just a minute. Served over steak or chopped steak, along with mashed potatoes. 

* For the history of the word "ream," here is the link to the article with that word: http://pontificating-randy.blogspot.com/2016/04/schnitzel-with-creamy-mushroom-gravy.html

** I wrap the whole peppercorns in a napkin or paper towel, then I use a kitchen mallet to tap and crush them. I've also used a rolling pin to roll over the wrapped peppercorns to crush them, and I have also crushed them by using a mortar and pestle.   

Pepper Cream Gravy with chopped sirloin steak, mashed potatoes and buttered corn... 

WORD HISTORY:
Vial-The ultimate origin of this word is unknown, and the beginning has been spelled with an "f," "ph," or "v" in a number of languages, including German, a close relative of English, in which its version was initially spelled with an "f," then a "v" and then a "ph" (modern "Phiole"). It goes back to transliterated Ancient Greek "phiále," meaning, "a shallow bowl for drinking," which was borrowed by Latin as "phiala," with the same meaning, and which later altered to "phiola." This passed to Old French as "fiole," but by then with the meaning, "bottle or small flask." This was borrowed by English circa 1400, initially as "fiole," then as "viole," then as "phial," and then as "vial," although some still spell it with the "ph," which returned the spelling to the old Latin and Greek forms (seemingly the same in German, as noted above).  

Czech Sweet Rolls: Buchty, and Buchteln in German

These rolls originally came from the Czech lands of Bohemia, where they are called "buchty."* Very briefly and superficially, Bohemia and the Czechs had a long association with Germans through the Old German Empire (Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation) and the Habsburg family, one of the leading German noble families in Germandom for centuries. Bohemia later was a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, led by the Habsburg emperor (Kaiser), who was simultaneously King of Hungary and King of Bohemia, as well as a number of other titles. When that empire dissolved, Bohemia became a part of the newly formed Czechoslovakia and it now is part of the Czech Republic, also known to some as "Czechia." The term "buchty" was borrowed by German as "Buchteln" (German nouns are capitalized), which is what I know them as, but they are also called "Wuchteln," although I have no idea why, unless it simply started out as a mispronunciation (?). There are also a couple of other regional names for these rolls in German. They are well known in Austria, parts of Bavaria (Bayern), Saxony (Sachsen) and the Swabia (Schwaben) region, part of which is in Bavaria, with the rest being a part of the state of Baden-Württemberg.

There are variations to Buchteln, which are often, but not always, filled with plum or apricot jam, while others add some grated lemon peel to the batter. Some dust the Buchteln with powdered sugar when they are taken from the oven. "Vanillesoße" (vanilla sauce)** is a common accompaniment to these little sweet rolls. I made the Buchteln straight up, with no filling or lemon peel, but I did have plum jam on the side for serving. I do NOT take responsibility for any desire you have to make these rolls over and over and over. They are delicious! Browned and a "little" firm on top, but just light and airy inside.

Ingredients:

Rolls:

2 1/4 cups flour (a little more, if needed, plus some for when kneading the dough)
1 packet dry yeast (1/4 ounce/7g, and I used quick rise yeast) 
1/4 cup sugar
1 cup lukewarm milk
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons melted butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
pinch of salt
2 tablespoons melted butter for coating
(optional) 1 or 2 tablespoons grated lemon peel
butter for the baking dish
(optional) powdered sugar for dusting

In a bowl, mix the yeast with about 1/4 cup of lukewarm milk (it cannot be hot, just barely warm), 2 tablespoons of the sugar and 1/4 cup flour. Set this aside for about 10 to 15 minutes to let the yeast begin to act. Meanwhile, in a larger bowl, add the flour, the remainder of the sugar, the rest of the lukewarm milk, the egg yolks, the melted butter, the vanilla and the salt (the lemon peel too, if using). When the yeast mixture is frothy and puffy, add it to the other ingredients and mix everything very well. The dough will likely be somewhat sticky, but cover the bowl with a towel or paper towel and put it in a warm place for about 30 minutes or until the dough about doubles in size. Dust your counter or board with some flour and empty the dough out. I use some oil on my hands (not something like extra virgin olive oil, which has a flavor to it). Knead the dough for about 5 minutes, adding a little flour to the counter, as needed (of course if you have a mixer for bread, follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer). Roll the dough into a long "snake." Cut off pieces to roll into golf ball size rounds. Butter a baking dish. Dip each round into the melted butter to lightly coat them, then put the rounds into the buttered dish. The rounds should be "snuggled" into the dish together, not spread out from one another. Cover the dish with a towel again and let it sit in a warm place for about another 10 to 15 minutes to let the rolls rise a little. Bake in a preheated oven at 375 F for "about" 30 to 40 minutes, or until the rolls are browned. Note: If you want to fill the Buchteln, when you roll the golf ball size rounds out, punch an opening into each round with your thumb, put in a heaping teaspoon of plum or apricot jam, then pull the dough over the opening to close it off. Place this side down in the baking dish. Some people actually roll out the rounds, place the jam in the middle, then pull up the dough all around. Again, place where the opening was facing down in the baking dish.

Buchteln are usually served warm, and you can always pop them into your microwave for just a few seconds if they've cooled, but I like them cooled too. If you'd like vanilla sauce with the Buchteln, see note ** below.   

* Pronounced pretty much like "book-tea" (the "oo" being the pronunciation of "boot," not book), with the singular form being "buchta," with the (singular) meaning being "bread roll, bun." 

** The recipe for vanilla sauce is at this link: https://pontificating-randy.blogspot.com/2018/11/vanilla-sauce-vanillesoe.html

2 Buchteln with plum jam and vanilla sauce...

Fresh from the oven...

Unbaked...

WORD HISTORY: 
Leave-English has two forms of this spelling, but this is the noun meaning, "permission, agreement to permit something," most commonly associated with "permission to be away from work or military duty, furlough." It is related to the second part of "belief," and more distantly related to "love," both from the Germanic roots of English. It goes back to Indo European "leub(h)," which had the notion of "care, desire, love, something that pleases." This gave its Old Germanic offspring "leubon/laubon," meaning, "permission" (obviously tied to "something that pleases"). This gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "leafe" (not related to the foliage of trees and plants, "leaf"), also meaning "permission." This then became "leve," before the modern version. Relatives in the other Germanic languages: German has "Urlaub" (military leave, leave from work, but Americans more typically say "vacation"), Erlaubnis (permission, a permit, authorization), Low German borrowed "Urlaub" from standard German, but prior to that, it had "orleve," Dutch has the now antiquated "oorlof" (permission, military or work leave), but Dutch also has "verlof," (vacation, military leave, furlough). Most of the Germanic languages now use words unrelated to the English noun "leave." 

Austro-German Creamed Green Beans: Rahmbohnen, Rahmfisolen

"Rahmbohnen" are literally, "ream-beans" in English, with "ream," in this case, being an old word for "cream," now pretty much confined to dialect in the UK. The standard German term for "green beans" (plural) is "Grüne Bohnen," a term closely related to its English cousin's term, but German speakers also say "Gartenbohnen" (garden beans), and they have "Brechbohnen," literally "break beans," which corresponds to the English term "snap beans," and also "Stangenbohnen" (literally, "pole beans," and English once had the closely related noun "steng," which meant, "pole, rod, bar, staff," and German "Stange" still means all of those things. A derivative of English "steng" is still with us in the word "stinger." Then regionally there are a number of German dialect terms: "Fisolen," a word borrowed from Latin, which had gotten it from Greek, and used in much of Austria, but "Strankerl" in the Carinthia region (German: Kärnten), with "Strankerl" being a word borrowed from Slovenian, "Fasäli"in Frankish (German: Fränkisch), "Buanschoan" in Bavarian, which is spoken in much, but not all, of Bavaria and Austria, in general, but with many regional variations.

This is a very easy dish to make, and there are some variations in Germany and Austria, but I like this version, which has Hungarian influence, with a hefty dose of paprika. 

Ingredients:

1 to 1 1/4 pounds green beans, rinsed and trimmed, then cut into about 1 1/2 inch pieces
1 cup onion, finely chopped (red, yellow or white onion)
1/4 cup butter
1 cup beef stock
2 tablespoons sweet paprika (Hungarian paprika is authentic for this dish and it has a smoky taste)
1/2 teaspoon salt (optional, if your beef broth has substantial salt)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons flour (depending upon how thick you want the sauce)
1 cup sour cream (reduced fat type is fine)
1 to 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Melt the butter in a skillet or a pan over medium heat. I use a skillet, because its wide opening and shallow depth makes it easier to stir things and to maneuver, in general. Add the onion and let it cook, stirring it around, until it softens a little (you don't want the onion to be golden brown). Add the green beans, then pour in the beef stock and stir to mix. Mix in the paprika and black pepper (also the salt, if using). Let the beans simmer (you can adjust the heat downward a little, if you'd like). Simmer the beans until they reach the point you like them (I like mine to be a little crisp). Mix the flour and sour cream together well. "Gradually" add tablespoons of the sour cream/flour to the simmering beans, mixing well to blend it in. The sauce will begin to thicken. Continue to add sour cream until you reach the thickness you desire for the sauce. Sprinkle in the chopped parsley and stir it into the beans and sauce.

WORD HISTORY:
Steven-This is not the name, but rather it is a word now confined to dialect, although it once was far more prominent. It goes back to Indo European "stomen," which meant, "mouth, opening, muzzle." This gave Old Germanic "stemno" and also the variant "stebno," both of which meant, "voice;" that is, "the sound that comes from the mouth." These forms gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "stemn" and "stefn," both meaning, "voice, sound from the mouth or muzzle of a creature." The two forms became one as "steven," meaning, "voice, strong voice (thus, "command"), a say in a matter." The word lost ground quickly to "voice," a Latin-derived word borrowed by English from French. The verb form was derived from the noun with the meaning, "to speak forcefully, to give an opinion, to vote (often done by shouting one's choice at public gatherings in times past)." Relatives in the other Germanic languages: German has "Stimme" (voice, vote) and "Stimmung" (mood, public opinion), Low German has "Stimm" (voice), Dutch "stem" (voice, vote), West Frisian "stim" (vote, voice), "stimming" (ballot, mood). Danish and Norwegian "stemme" (vote, voice), Swedish "stämma" (meeting; that is, "a place where thoughts and opinions are expressed," voice, a legal order), Icelandic "stefna" (a legal order or notice, a summons, a public meeting).

Austro-German Dessert Pancake: Kaiserschmarrn

I often had Kaiserschmarrn at the "Wienerwald" Restaurant in Frankfurt back in the 1980s. If I remember right, the restaurant was on Kaiserstraße, not far from the main train station, and it was located in a split level space, so you had to walk down a few steps (not many) to enter. "Wienerwald" means "Vienna Woods," and the restaurant was part of a large restaurant chain in Germany and Austria, one of the largest in Europe at the time, as I recall. They specialized in chicken dishes, with particular emphasis on "Backhendl;" that is, "fried chicken." The chain had financial difficulties and they later closed the restaurant on Kaiserstraße, but after some restructuring, they opened at a new location around the intersection of Kaiserstraße and Weserstraße. The chain was much scaled back a number of years later, as financial problems continued, and this resulted in the closing of the restaurant in Frankfurt. I believe the restaurants in Austria were sold off, so that they have a separate owner from those in Germany, but they all have similar menu offerings. 

Anyway, Kaiserschmarrn are a type of sweet pancake that is torn or cut into pieces and dusted with powdered sugar before serving. They are often served with a side dish of plum compote (German: Pflaumenröster or Zwetschgenröster) or apple sauce (German: Apfelmus), but I like to put a little glaze on my Kaiserschmarrn. The German word "Schmarren/Schmarrn" is related to English "smear," which in German is "schmieren" (verb), and the noun from that is, "Schmer," meaning, "fat of a swine;" thus also, "lard," and the connecting thought was likely because the original pancakes would have been cooked in lard. The word seems to have only come into use in southern German dialects in the 1500s, and the meaning became, "piece(s)," perhaps from the idea that the pancakes cooked in lard were then cut up into pieces. Besides its use for a cut up pancake (a pancake in 'pieces'), it also took on the slang meaning of "nonsense/rubbish."* This may have come from the idea of regular pancakes being cheap; thus, with little value. 

The history of this dessert is not really known, but the "Kaiser" part has long tied the dish to Kaiser (Emperor) Franz Joseph of Austria-Hungary, who ruled for some 68 years, before his death in late 1916 at the age of 86. Over the years I've read several theories about the name of this pancake dish, with one simply being that it had originated from a simple pancake recipe from the countryside, but that by the mid 1800s, it took on added ingredients, like raisins, sugar, vanilla and sometimes, cinnamon, which were not available to common people, thus making it "fit for the Kaiser," or perhaps, "fit for a Kaiser." Other stories "claim" it was a favorite dessert of Franz Joseph and that this is, therefore, the source of the name. 

Ingredients:

1 cup flour, sifted
4 egg yolks
4 egg whites
1 cup milk
1/4 cup sugar
few drops of vanilla 
1/3 cup golden raisins
pinch of salt
2 to 3 tablespoons butter for frying (or mix of half butter, half neutral oil)
powdered sugar for dusting

Mix together the sifted flour, sugar, salt, egg yolks and milk to make a batter. Beat the egg whites until stiff, then fold them into the batter. Some people use a large skillet and make one large pancake, but I prefer to use a smaller skillet and make two pancakes, one after the other. Melt the butter in a smaller skillet over low heat. Add enough batter to the skillet to make a 6 to 7 inch pancake, tilting the skillet back and forth to even out the batter. Sprinkle some raisins on top once the bottom of the pancake sets. Fry the pancake until it is nice and brown, then fry the pancake on the other side. Remove the pancake to a dish and keep it warm, while you repeat the process for the second pancake. Cut or tear the pancakes into bite-sized pieces. Serve with a dusting of powdered sugar, or pour on a little powdered sugar glaze... enjoy.


Powdered sugar glaze:

1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon melted butter
2 tablespoons warm milk

Put the butter and 2 tablespoons milk in a microwave safe dish. Heat for a few seconds until the butter melts. Mix in the powdered sugar. You can add a little more milk if the glaze is too thick.

* For a little more on the word "Schmarren," and also about Kaiserschmarren," here is the link:
http://pontificating-randy.blogspot.com/2012/09/its-none-of-your-pancake-business.html

Click to enlarge

WORD HISTORY:
Speck (2)-This word, meaning "small spot," has a very uncertain history. It is related to "speckle," both the noun and the verb forms. In Old English (Anglo-Saxon) it was "specca," which then became "spekke," before the modern form. It is related to the Dutch verb "spekelen," which fell into disuse, but which meant, "to sprinkle." The Dutch word in this case is the likely source of English "speckle," and it was influenced in meaning by English "speck," then still spelled "spekke," to produce the meaning "make small marks on something." Whether "speck/speckle" are from Germanic; that is, derived from some Germanic base word, is unclear.    

Tyrolean Style Liver (Tiroler Leber)

There are many variations to recipes of this name, "Leber nach Tiroler Art;" that is, "Liver, Tirol Style" (literally, "Liver after (or, according to) Tirol Type"), or sometimes it is called, "Tiroler Leber." It is made in Austria and Bavaria.* This is really a stew, and a very good one, at that. Some fix it with cream instead of sour cream, but others use no cream or sour cream at all, while some add lemon juice, but no wine, and there are other variations too. Some serve it with polenta, which Austro-German culture got from the Italians.** To me, the great sauce of this dish requires mashed potatoes, but I'm a lover of mashed potatoes; so to me, chocolate ice cream requires mashed potatoes. Well, that's not true... actually, strawberry ice cream. 

Ingredients (for 4 to 6 servings):

1 1/2 pounds liver (calves, beef or pork) cut into bite sized pieces
flour for coating the liver
3 tablespoons butter + 3 tablespoons olive oil
5 thick cut slices smoked bacon, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 large onion, chopped
1 1/2 cups beef stock
2/3 cup white wine
1 heaping teaspoon dried marjoram leaves (or you can use oregano)
3 tablespoons (drained) capers, whole or chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt (or you can omit this, if the beef stock is salty)
1 teaspoon black pepper
flour and water for thickener, if desired
1/2 cup sour cream (reduced fat type is fine)

Coat the cut liver pieces with flour, set aside. In a skillet over medium heat, add the oil and butter. Add the bacon and the onion, cook, stirring the mixture around fairly often, until the onion is softened. Add the liver and cook for a few minutes before adding the beef stock, the wine and the marjoram. Stir well to mix. Reduce heat to simmer the stew. When the liver is cooked through, add the capers, the pepper and the salt (if using), stir well. (If you want the sauce to be thickened, as I like, mix some flour and water and gradually stir it into the stew. Let the stew simmer for a minute or two.) Remove the stew from the heat and stir in the sour cream until it is fully mixed in.

* Tyrol/Tirol is a region in the Alps divided between Austria and Italy since the end of World War One. Long a part of the Old German Empire, then of the Austrian Empire, and then of Austria-Hungary, the southern part of the region, the South Tirol (German: Südtirol, Italian: Alto Adige) was given to Italy after World War One, which caused bitter feelings by the majority German population for decades (it should be noted, parts of the region had substantial Italian minorities or even local majorities).  

** Of course, the Italians live just south of the German speaking areas. "Polenta," known to most Americans as simply, "cornmeal," is ground corn/maize, a food taken to Europe from the New World, along with some other new food products for those times, like potatoes and tomatoes, for instance. In German the word "Polenta" is used as the standard word, but there is also "Plentn" in dialect, as well as "Sterz" in some southern dialect (more for the cooked type, either as a kind of solidly cooked "bread/cake," or as a kind of porridge). German also uses "Maismehl" (maize meal) for the uncooked ground meal.   

Tyrolean Style Liver with mashed potatoes and salad....

WORD HISTORY: 
Brook-There is more than one word of this spelling in English (the noun is unrelated and is from a totally different source), and this is the verb "brook," with the modern meaning of "to tolerate, bear something unpleasant." It is distantly related to "fruit," a word of Latin derivation borrowed by English, which originally meant "an enjoyment," which then progressed to the modern meaning, "produce of trees or bushes" (from the notion, "a food that is enjoyed"). It goes back to Indo European "bhrug," with the notion of, "to enjoy, to make use of for enjoyment." This gave Old Germanic "brukanan," with the same meanings. This gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "brucan," meaning, "to enjoy, to use, to eat and to enjoy food;" which led to the meanings, "to digest," and for the food, "to be digestible;" thus, "to tolerate (stomach wise);" thus, to the later more general sense of "tolerate, bear something," the meaning that survived into modern English. In more modern times, at least in the U.S., it is often used in the negative sense, "I can't brook his drinking and gambling." Other Germanic relatives: German has "gebrauchen" (to use) and "brauchen," (to have need of, to have the need to use something), Low German Saxon has "bruken" (to need for use, to use), West Frisian "brûke" (to use), Dutch "bruiken" (to use, to make use of). Apparently a form did not survive in North Germanic, but the word was not just in West Germanic, as Gothic, which was East Germanic, had "brukjan" (to enjoy). Danish "bruge" (to use), Norwegian "bruke" (to use) and Swedish "bruka" (to become accustomed to, to till land; that is, make land ready for use, but the word's former general meaning was, "make use of"), all came by borrowing from Low German.    

Rosemary Potatoes

Two new pictures added and some slight text editing 6-30-22 

"Rosemary Potatoes" are fairly common in Germany and Austria (in German they are "Rosmarinkartoffeln"), maybe too in the other German speaking areas of Europe. There are many variations in recipes, most of which call for the skins to be removed from the potatoes. I choose to leave the skins on and to coat the cut sides of the potato halves with breadcrumbs, and the potato halves are then fried until nicely browned. The seasonings are added later in the cooking process to prevent burning. I love both garlic and rosemary, so these potatoes are a favorite of mine.

Ingredients:

1 1/2 pounds small red potatoes
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt (according to your taste)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons chopped rosemary
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
fine breadcrumbs (see in instructions below)

Put potatoes into a pan with sufficient water to cover them. Simmer potatoes until softened, but not mushy. Drain and let the potatoes dry and cool a bit. In the meantime, heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cut the potatoes in half and put them, cut side down, into a plate or bowl with bread crumbs. Put the potatoes into the heated oil in the skillet, breadcrumb side down. Let the breadcrumbs brown lightly, turn them over and then add dabs of butter to the skillet, let it melt. Scatter the garlic and chopped rosemary into the potatoes. Reduce heat slightly. Add the salt and pepper and let cook just a minute or so longer, stirring the garlic and rosemary around to prevent burning and to mix the rosemary and garlic flavors into the butter/oil to season it.

WORD HISTORY:
Morning-This word goes back to Indo European "merek/merk," which had the notion, "to flicker, to sparkle." This gave its Old Germanic offspring, "murganaz," which meant, "morning," in the sense, "beginning of daylight, time around sunrise," but also, "tomorrow," from the idea of, "the next sunrise." This gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "morgen," with the same general meanings. The "g" sound died out in English, which left the contracted form, "morn." This was then given the "ing" suffix, but English is the only Germanic language to have added this suffix. "We awake and say, 'Good morning.' " Just to show the close relationship of English with German, the West Germanic cousin of English, here is the same sentence in standard German: "Wir erwaken und sagen, 'Guten Morgen.' " ("Say" once also had a "g," as its German cousin still does.) The other Germanic languages have: German "Morgen," Low German Saxon "Morgen," West Frisian "moarn," Dutch "morgen," Danish "morgen," Icelandic "morgunn," Norwegian "morgen," Swedish "morgon." 

Liptauer Cheese Spread

This is a highly popular cheese spread in much of Bavaria and Austria, commonly just called Liptauer, or Liptauer Aufstrich (spread), not to be confused with the well known "Obatzda," another, similar, cheese spread, primarily from Bavaria, often eaten with large soft pretzels (YUMMY!). There are a number of variations on Liptauer, with just a change or two in ingredients, but all recipes I've seen are very similar to one another. Good with pumpernickel or hearty rye bread and some sliced vegetables. Liptauer came from the "Liptov" area of northern Slovakia, for which the German rendering of the name was "Liptau."  

Ingredients:

1 pound small curd cottage cheese, mashed up well (or pressed through a sieve, if you want to get that involved, which I don't, but see the Word History)
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
3 heaping tablespoons sour cream
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
3 tablespoons sweet paprika (Hungarian for authenticity, but use what you have)
2 tablespoons hot paprika (same as with sweet paprika)
1 medium pickle, finely chopped
1 teaspoon grainy mustard
2 tablespoons caraway seed (whole or ground)
3 tablespoons capers (whole or chopped)
3 anchovy fillets, chopped*
3 tablespoons chopped red bell pepper

In a bowl, thoroughly mix the cottage cheese, cream cheese and sour cream. Gradually add all of the other ingredients to make sure everything is well mixed. Cover and chill for a couple of hours. "Typically," "hot paprika" is not really all that hot, but you can cut down on the hot paprika, but then up the regular paprika, as the spread needs quite a bit of paprika.

* Please don't be afraid of anchovies. When used in cooking, they actually melt away, but provide a subtle meaty taste. When used in cold dishes, they do need to be chopped well to keep the taste subtle, and not the taste anchovy haters remember from a bite of pizza they had when they were 11 years old. I love anchovies, including on pizza, but I realize that "full strength" anchovies are not for everyone.   

I had mine with pumpernickel cocktail bread along with celery and green onions. (Hey, who's the guy with the onion breath?)

WORD HISTORY:
Sieve-This word, closely related to "sift," goes back to Indo European "seip," which had the notion, "to flow through, to drip, to trickle." This gave the West Germanic branch of Old Germanic, "sibp," ^ which meant, "sieve." This then gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "sife" (likely pronounced "sifeh," with a short "i," and the ending "e" was pronounced 'eh'). This then became "sive," before the modern form. The verb form was derived from the noun in the 1400s. Other West Germanic languages have: German "Sieb," Low German Saxon "Seev," Dutch "zeef," West Frisian "souwe."

^ Forms of "sieve" are only in the West Germanic languages, so either other Germanic forms died out in East and North Germanic, or the form itself was developed in West Germanic.  

Wiener Schnitzel, Fried Veal Cutlet

Wiener Schnitzel (pronounced as if, "vee-ner shnit-zel"), is a famous fried breaded veal dish. "Wiener" is simply the German word for "Viennese," and "Schnitzel" means cutlet of meat. The Austrians likely took the recipe from Italian "Veal Milanese," although some Austrians apparently dispute that, but for whatever reason, "Wiener Schnitzel," generally speaking, became far better known internationally than the Italian version. The Habsburg rulers of Austria also controlled large areas of northern Italy for quite some time. The dish spread throughout many of the other German states, and it is a staple on many restaurant menus throughout Austria and Germany to this day. Real Wiener Schnitzel is made with veal, but it can also be made from the far less expensive pork or turkey, but it is then referred to as "Schnitzel nach Wiener Art" (Schnitzel, Viennese style). Many years ago a German friend of mine told me that in Germany the dish is always referred to as "nach Wiener Art" (Viennese style) out of respect for the famous cutlet from Vienna. Whether that is true, I really don't know, but I've had the dish in Germany many times, and I do believe it was always on the menu as "Viennese style," so perhaps he was right. For those unaware, Vienna was long the de facto capital of the old German empire, until its dissolution in 1806. The German word "Schnitzel" is not just used for "Wiener Schnitzel," as there are a number of other dishes of meat cutlets in Germany and Austria, and in other German-speaking areas. I plan to be doing recipe articles on two or three more Schnitzel recipes shortly. While the recipe for Wiener Schnitzel is simple, the high cost of veal has always made it a bit of a luxury food or special occasion dish for many. Getting the schnitzel cooked properly is the main challenge, as the meat should only be breaded right before it is fried, as once cooked, the coating should be able to be easily pulled away from the cutlet, and the meat should be cooked through and tender. Controlling the temperature of the oil/butter is essential to keep the breading from burning or darkening too much if the oil is too high, but on the other hand, if the oil temperature is too low, the breading will absorb the oil and become greasy.

Ingredients:

4 thinly sliced 4 oz. veal steaks, pounded even thinner using a kitchen mallet
1 cup all purpose flour
2 tablespoons milk (I use evaporated milk, known as "canned milk," to some, but just regular milk is fine)
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/4 cups breadcrumbs (regular finely ground bread crumbs is traditional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons butter
lemon wedges

First, place some paper towels onto a platter or baking sheet. Heat your oven to no more than 200 degrees. As you fry the schnitzels, you will remove each to the platter to drain off any excess oil and to keep the schnitzels warm. Spread the flour onto a large plate, lightly beat the eggs and milk together in a shallow dish (one large enough to fit the individual pieces of schnitzel), and put the breadcrumbs into another large plate. The three dishes should be close to one another and also close to the stove. In a heavy duty skillet, heat the oil/butter mixture over medium heat for about 60 to 90 seconds. Meanwhile, lightly salt each cutlet (hey, a 1/2 teaspoon of salt isn't going to go too far). Dredge the first cutlet in the flour on both sides, shaking off any excess flour. Dip the cutlet into the egg, then into the breadcrumbs, making sure there is a coating on both sides. Gently shake off any excess breadcrumbs to minimize their falling off in the grease and smoking/burning. Put the schnitzel into the hot oil/butter and fry about a minute to a minute and a half per side, until nice and brown. Remove the schnitzel to the oven platter, then repeat the same process with each of the other three remaining schnitzels. When the last piece is finished, remove the platter from the oven, and serve each with a wedge of lemon, the juice of which is to be squeezed onto the schnitzels. In Germany, I believe they always served Wiener Schnitzel with fried potatoes ("home fries" to many Americans)* in the places I ordered it, but I could be wrong. Further a side salad was served.

* In German, "fried potatoes"= "Bratkartoffeln"

I had Wiener Schnitzel with fried potatoes (Bratkartoffeln) and a salad...

WORD HISTORY:
To/Too- This word traces back to Indo European "do" (long "o"), with the notion of "toward," with the further extension, "for the reason of." This gave its Old Germanic offspring "ta," with the same meanings. This gave Old English (Anglo-Saxon) "to," still with the long 'o' sound, which later altered to the "u" sound that we still use today, but of course, the old spelling was retained (probably just to confuse people trying to learn English, hahaha!). The form "too," with the same "u" pronunciation, meaning "besides, in addition, also, more," was simply the same word, "to," with the notion, "further on (extending 'toward');" thus, "also, besides, in addition," and meaning "more" or "in excess," when used for emphasis. The spelling "to" was used until the 1500s, when the second "o" was added, differentiating the two words. Relatives in the other Germanic languages are confined to the West Germanic languages (English is West Germanic), as the North Germanic languages (Danish, Icelandic, Norwegian, Swedish, being the primary languages) use a form of English "til" (in "until") in the same way. German has "zu" (pronounced "tsoo," rhymes with "too"), Low German Saxon has "to," Dutch has both "tot" and "toe," ^ West Frisian has "ta."

^ Dutch "tot" means "to, at, until," while "toe" (pronounced similarly to English "to") means "to," in the sense, "the door is to;" that is, "shut, pulled to."

I'll Have The Goulash

This was published in August 2012, more as a general article, but I added the actual recipe November 29, 2016.


I got into my cooking mode a couple of days ago, and I fixed two great dishes, which lasted for a couple of meals. I made "goulash" and bacon dumplings (German: "Speckknödel" *). There is some disagreement about the history and preparation of goulash, but it developed among Hungarian herders** who fixed a thick soup of beef, peppers, onions, chopped tomatoes,*** paprika (a Hungarian specialty), and perhaps some other items, especially caraway, but also garlic, potatoes, or carrots, and typically thickened with flour. Hungary was ruled for quite some time by the Habsburg dynasty, and later it gained a large degree of equality in an agreement in 1867, making the former Austro-German dominated Austrian Empire into a shared empire called Austria-Hungary, or the Austro-Hungarian Empire. With Vienna (German: "Wien") the capital city of the multi-ethnic empire, lots of different peoples and foods influenced the culture of the city, and the Viennese picked up goulash from the Hungarians, albeit with their own version,**** which made it into more of a real stew, rather than a thick soup. The stew became something of a Viennese specialty, typically accompanied by bread dumplings (German: "Semmelknödel"), a close cousin to the bacon dumplings I made.

Well, many years ago in Frankfurt, Germany, there was a little restaurant called "Servus" (pronounced "zair-voos"). The word is known throughout the German-speaking lands, but it is more typical in southern German lingo; that is, more so in Bavaria and especially in Austria, and it is used as either a greeting or farewell, depending upon circumstance; thus it means "hello" or "goodbye." Wow did "Servus" have good food! It was owned by a fairly young couple, and I went in so many times, the lady asked me why I had become such a good customer. Well, one of the reasons was the goulash, or "Gulasch," in German, and the other was "Zwetschgenknödel" (plum dumplings). Now, the standard German word for "plum" is "Pflaume," a close relative to the English form, as centuries ago Old Germanic borrowed a form from Latin, giving both English and German forms of the word. For the history of the words "plum" and "prune," see my article at this link:  http://pontificating-randy.blogspot.com/2013/04/plum-pudding-and-plum-cake.html    However, many German dialects use forms of "Zwetsche"***** for "plum." There are numerous spellings and pronunciations, including "Quetsche" in much of Hessen, the German state where Frankfurt is located, and "Quetschkuche," or "plum cake," is common in that area.

Anyhow, the lady proceeded to tell me she was from Austria and that her husband was Hungarian. Alas, the old empire was recreated. When I asked her where she was from in Austria, she got a bit nervous, even saying I would have never heard of it. Finally she told me, and I certainly understood her anxiety about how I might react. She was from Braunau, a little town right across the border from the German state of Bavaria. In fact, during certain times in the past, the town had been part of Bavaria. So why was she so nervous? Because Braunau was the birthplace of Adolf Hitler. The full name is actually "Branau am Inn;" the "am Inn" meaning, "on the Inn (River)."

Germans, the ethnic group, and not just the specific nationality from Gerrmany, love dumplings, and they make them out of flour, potatoes, or even stale bread or rolls. They come in all shapes and sizes, sweet or savory, and with various added ingredients. "Speckknödel" are made from stale rolls, which are sliced and soaked in warm milk. Small strips of bacon and sausage (usually smoked) are lightly fried together and then added to the bread. Today most of us would pour off the fat before adding the meat to the bread, but that was not the case in the past, when bacon and sausage fat added flavor to the dumpling mixture, along with a substantial dose of cholesterol. A little salt and some parsley are mixed in, and egg and flour help to bind the dough, which is then rolled into dumplings somewhere about the size of ping pong balls or golf balls. A little coating of flour helps to keep the dumplings from falling apart. Ten to fifteen minutes in some salted, lightly boiling water and you're ready to go. Any leftovers can be sliced and fried lightly in butter for a snack or even served with eggs for breakfast, which is not uncommon. I don't waste anything, as the water will have residue from the cooked dumplings, giving you something on the order of a thick porridge.

Vienna-Style Goulash (Gulasch, Wiener Art) Recipe (this is my own version):

Typically this dish is cooked on the stove top, but I prefer to bake it at relatively low heat for a couple of hours. In the past, the beef would not have had the fat trimmed off of it.

2 pounds beef stewing meat (bite-sized pieces)
3 tablespoons of vegetable oil or sunflower oil
3 onions, chopped
3 tablespoons mild paprika (Hungarian, if you have it)
1 tablespoon hot paprika ("hot" paprika tends not to be terribly hot)
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon sugar (this helps to smooth out some of the acidity, use a little more, if needed)
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried marjoram (or you can substitute oregano)
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar (or cider vinegar)
1/4 cup beef stock (I suppose you could substitute beef bullion, but don't be surprised if the Viennese put a curse on you, where you hear 24 straight hours of waltz music)
1 or 2 teaspoons salt (your preference; I use seasoned salt)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

I use a heavy duty pan with a lid to make goulash. I add the oil first, then I add all of the other ingredients, then I mix it all well. I bake it at 275 degrees (F) for an hour, then I stir it, then I turn the heat down to about 250 (F) and let it bake for another 90 minutes. Check to be sure the meat is tender, giving the meat as much time as it needs to bake. The relatively low heat isn't going to hurt it, and your patience will be greatly rewarded with a delicious goulash.
 
If you want the goulash very thick, as I do, mix 1 tablespoon flour with 2 tablespoons water, making sure the flour is well mixed in. Stir the mixture into the goulash near the very end of cooking, and return it to the oven for about 5 minutes. Since I fix my goulash in an oven safe pan, I simply put the pan on the stove (low heat) and add the flour/water mixture, stirring until it is thickened and the flour taste is cooked out, which only takes a couple of minutes. Remember to remove the bay leaf before serving. I must admit, on occasion over the years, I have used bullion instead of real beef stock and nothing ever happened to me ... Hey! What's that music? Do I hear a waltz?  

* Also called "Tiroler Speckknödel."

** The Hungarian word for "herder, herdsman," "gulyas," lies behind the word "goulash."

*** I once read a recipe for goulash by a lady whose Hungarian mother or grandmother, I now cannot remember which, was adamant that "real Hungarian goulash" did NOT have tomatoes in it. I'll stay out of the argument, except to say that everyone has their own recipes for various foods, and goulash is no exception, including in Hungary. Just a possible explanation though: the passing down of recipes for goulash could likely date from a time before tomatoes were accepted as being safe in Europe. Tomatoes came from the New World, and they were originally thought to be poisonous, thus it is not out of the question that early recipes for the dish did not include tomatoes, and that omission was retained by many people, as the recipe was passed down.

**** The more typical Viennese style (German: "Gulasch, Wiener Art") uses beef, onions, some tomato puree or paste, paprika, salt, pepper and caraway, although some cooks add garlic, and/or, a bit of vinegar. I improvised a bit, using some tomato paste and about a heaping tablespoon of thick ketchup, which provided just a tad of vinegar. It should be slowly braised (a slow cooker is good for this) and end up rather dark in color, somewhat on the order of dark red wine. A variation of this is served with a fried egg on top, as well as one of the famous Vienna-style sausages ("Wieners," to Americans; German: "Frankfurter Würstl"), and a pickle, which in restaurants has one end cut into a fan shape. This is then called "Fiakergulasch," or "Cabbie's Goulash," with a "Fiaker" being the name for a two-horse carriage used as a cab long ago. The name was also used for the cab driver. 

***** The various forms of Zwetsche are not native German words, but another borrowing, "perhaps" from a non-German dialect from the alpine border area of northern Italy and eastern France.

WORD HISTORY:
Cook-This "seems" to go back to Indo European "kekewo," "perhaps" a variant form of "pekwo," which seems to have meant "to ripen;" the notion being to prepare inedible raw food until it is 'ripe;' that is, ready to eat. Latin had "coquus," which was borrowed into Old Germanic as "kukaz," a noun form. This gave its Anglo-Saxon (Old English) offspring "coc," which later became "cook." The Latin verb form "coquo" was likewise borrowed by Old Germanic as "kokanan," which then gave Old English "cocian," as well as "gecocsian," both meaning essentially "to cook." The latter died out or merged with the former, which then became "coken," before the modern form. Noun and verb forms are common throughout the other Germanic languages: German has "Koch" and "kochen" (meaning "cook, boil"); Low German Saxon "Kock" and "kaken/koken;" Dutch has "kok" and "koken;" Danish has "kok" and "koge;" Icelandic has the noun "kokkur" ("chef"); Swedish has "kock/kocken" and "koka;" and Norwegian has "kokk(en)" and "koke" ("boil"). Apparently Frisian does not use a form of the word in modern times, but it once had "koka."